Trouble Shooting

Well now that I have taught you everything I know about making a mask I am going to talk about how to fix any problems you may run into along the way in this section. I have been making these masks by using this technique for almost two years now and believe me I have had my fair share of problems. While there are many things that can go wrong ill only be addressing the main problems that I have faced. The first and one of the biggest problems is that your resin cast of the mask will not release from the mold. Now keep in mind if you use the right kind of silicone this should not happen but recently it happened to me. I tried out a new kind of silicone that was 100% silicone but stuck to the casting anyway. You can fix this problem by dunking the mold in a high concentration of vinegar as vinegar dissolves silicone. While this does destroy the mold it’s the only thing that can be done. Another problem you may face is that the clay sculpt will not release from the silicone mold. This is another problem I had when I switched to the newer cheaper silicone. However clay dissolves in water so all you have to do is dunk it in water. A major problem you may have is that since the mold is silicone and therefore not the most rigid your mask may come out warped if the mold shifts. To solve this brace the mold with strips of cardboard glued to the back of the mold. Make sure the mold is stable and recast your mask. If you have problems when painting they are really simple to fix. If the paint is wet just wipe it with a dry paper towel and then follow that up with several wet paper towels. If the paint is dry just paint over it or use paint thinner to remove it. I hope this helps. Just remember mistakes help you learn and they are going to happen. Keep working and eventually you will get a feel for how things work.  

Painting Techniques

In this section I will be talking about basic painting techniques when using acrylic paints. Acrylic paints are a relatively new medium as they were created in 1955. They are really easy to use, inexpensive, and they can be found at Wal-Mart or a craft store. The acrylic painting technique offers both the new and experienced artist a very versatile method of painting. Acrylics, although similar in style and finish to oils, gives subtly different but important qualities to your work. Probably, its biggest benefit is its speed of drying. It's a water-based medium and the usual texture and consistency is similar to oil paints. However, unlike oils, you can get acrylics in a wide variety of densities. These range from a very thin, ink-like consistency able to be used in airbrushes through various degrees of 'flow' to a thicker syrup like consistency. Start with a base coat of spray paint and then add alternating layers of paint. A technique called dry brushing can be used to bring out more detail. Dry brushing uses very little paint on the end of the brush. Using a lot of paint covers up more of the mask and doesn’t allow as much detail of the sculpt to show. However if you use large amounts of acrylic paint in the right areas and the right way it can add a very neat effect.

Sculpting Techniques

In this section I will be talking about several different clay sculpting techniques in order to help those that are beginning to sculpt for the first time. I’ll break it down into steps so it’s easier to follow. Step number one is the roughing out or background step. In this step you basically think about how exactly you’re going to go about sculpting your mask. Then sculpt the basic shape of your mask. Some beginners give up at this point because they are intimidated but you just have to be patient with yourself. Step number two is allowing your base to harden slightly. Remember only let it harden a little bit, you don’t want the clay to dry out. Step number three is either adding or subtracting more clay to the mask. You can add or subtract as much clay as you want as long as you keep it in workable condition. Step number four is where you can cut or reposition your mask. Once your piece has been roughed out you may notice that something doesn’t look right or you don’t like something. That’s what this step is all about, so before adding any serious detail you can mess around with the basic shape. The fifth and final step is adding the details to your mask. Go slow and take your time there is no rush just remember to keep the clay moist and workable. Never throw your piece out the great thing about clay is that it can always be corrected. Even if its dry just rehydrate it and you’re ready to go.

Step #7 Rigging and Padding

The last step is getting the mask strapped to you face. You will also need to add padding to make the mask more comfortable. I made a back plate for the mask as well which connects to the straps and makes it look cooler. You can use just about anything for the straps. I used the webbing from an old gas mask that I found at an army surplus store. I would highly recommend using this kind of webbing for your straps. I also purchased some hooks and loops which can be found at Wal-Mart or a craft store like Michaels. Start by sewing the hooks onto the ends of the straps. Then either glue or bolt the loops onto the mask where they attach. Then glue the straps onto the back plate and allow it to dry. You can use any kind of glue you want. I used JB Weld brand epoxy glue that I bought at Wal-Mart. It creates a long lasting durable bond. The last thing you need to do is add padding to your mask. I got some old foam rubber sheets from work and used them. However it really doesn’t matter what you use as long as it’s comfortable. Cut the padding into sections and then glue it to the inside of the mask. The most important areas to add padding are around the eyes and the nose. After the glue has dried hook on the straps and your mask is done.

Step #6 Painting

The second to last step is painting your mask. You can use just about any kind of paint you want but higher quality paints do make a big difference. However you can use simple latex craft paints that can be found at Wal-Mart or Hobby Lobby. I used Folk-Art brand latex paints that I got from a Michaels craft store. You will also need a can of flat spray paint for your base coat. It doesn’t really matter what color it is, it all depends on what you want your mask to look like. For mine I used a Krylon brand flat black camo spray paint. You will also need a can of clear- coat spray paint. I used Krylon brand crystal clear spray paint with a gloss finish which is what I would recommend using. The kind of finish affects how shiny the mask will be. I want mine to look like metal so I used a gloss finish. The first step is to apply several even coats of the flat black spray paint. Once the base coat of spray paint has dried you can begin painting your mask with the latex paint. Its best to layer your paints evenly with different colors. I used dark silver then light silver and then dry brushed dark silver over top. Dry brushing is where you put a little paint on the end of your brush a lightly brush it over the mask. Lastly spray the clear coat on and let it dry. Your new mask is ready to go.

Step #5 Fiberglassing

After you have added a good amount of resin to your mask you are ready to fiberglass it. You can purchase fiberglass from stores like Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or boating stores. However you don’t need to buy actual fiberglass for it to work. Since fiberglass is only used to add strength to the mask you can use just about any cloth like material even medical gauze works just fine. I used some old fiberglass screening that I found around the house in my mask and it worked just fine. To apply the fiberglass you will need latex gloves and a paint brush. To start fiber glassing cut the fiber glass into strips. Then coat the entire inside of the mask with a coat of resin. Before the resin dries apply the strips of fiber glass to the inside of the mask. Make sure to push the strips of fiberglass down all the way so they stick completely to the inside of the mask. Once the resin dry has dried add a couple more coats of resin over top of the fiberglass and let it dry. After the resin has dried peel the silicone mold away from the mask and you’re ready to go. It was important to use 100% silicone because the resin should not stick to it. If you peel the silicone off carefully so as not to rip the mold you can reuse it to make another mask. The next step is painting.

Step #4 Casting

After you have finished making your mold and the silicone has cured you can begin casting. The casting process is easily the longest and most difficult stage of making a mask. For my mask i used West System Brand epoxy resin (Fig. 5). This kind of resin is usually about eighty bucks. However the only reason i used it is because i got it for free from work. Epoxy resin does work pretty well but you can also use polyurethane resin as well. The problem with epoxy resin is that is has to be applied in relatively thin layers at a time and allowed to dry. If you try to put it on all at once the resin will pool at the bottom of the mask and make it unwearable. The good thing about polyurethane resin is that you can let it thicken slightly before applying it to the mask so it doesn't run as much. Both epoxy resin and polyurethane resin are two part systems. This means that you have to mix a catalyst into the resin in order to harden it. If you don't mix in the catalyst the resin will not harden at all. Before you are ready to apply the resin to the mold your going to need a few things. A respirator is always a good idea especially if your working with a cheaper resin. Usually the cheaper the resin is the more it stinks. You will also need a lot of paint brushes to apply the resin, latex gloves, a container to mix the resin in, and something to mix it with. In a well ventilated area mix the resin together and apply it to the mold (Fig. 6). Then let it dry. Repeat this process until there is a relatively thick layer of resin on ever side of the mask. Then you are ready to add your fiberglass.

Step #3 Molding

After you have completed your sculpt, are happy with it, and have allowed the clay to completely dry out you are ready for the molding process. Start out by coating your clay sculpt with several coats of clear coat. If this is not done correctly the mold can end up sticking to your clay sculpt. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area while wearing a resperator its not good to breath in the fumes. After you have completley coated the sculpt with clear coat you are ready for the molding process. Normally you use a molding agent designed to create a perfect mold of your sculpt. However actual molding agents can sometimes be very pricey. So instead you can use tubes of silicon that can be purchased at Wal-mart or Home Depot. It dosn't really matter what brand you use as long as its 100% silicone. I used three tubes of GE brand silicone. Which cost around fifteen bucks in total. Your also going to need a caulking gun and a paint brush in order to apply the silicone (Fig. 3). Squeeze out some and apply it to the mask sculpt. Make sure to get it into every detail or the finished mask wont look as good. Take your time and apply the silicone to the clay in layers letting each one dry. Its also a good idea to put some plasterers seaming tape over the mold to give it strength. The finished mold looks like this (Fig. 4). Once the mold has dried peel it from the sculpt and you are ready to cast it.

Step #2 Sculpting

The next step is one of the most important, but relatively simple and enjoyable. To sculpt my mask i am using a simple earthenware clay that can be purchased for around fifteen dollars at a craft store like Hobby Lobby. Depending on what you are sculpting it is sometimes beneficial to use something as a base to sculpt over top of. Since i will be making a mask i will be sculpting over top of a mannequin head (see Fig.1). This head can also be found at Hobby Lobby. It should be noted that the mannequin head is slightly smaller and slimmer than my own so it is important to lay the clay extra thick over the head.
   Sculpting step 1. Take your clay and roll it flat using a rolling pin then cut a portion of it large enough to fit over your mannequin head. Step 2. Lay the clay over the mannequin head and get the edges trimmed up around the top of the head the temples and the jaw line. Step 3. Now your ready to start sculpting. Anything laying around your house can be used as a sculpting tool (see Fig.2.). If want to you can purchase some sculpting tools from a craft store. Use the sculpting tools to carve into the clay to create your design. If you mess up you can use a wet paintbrush too smooth the clay back out. It is important to keep the clay moist the entire time you are working with it. If you want to take a break moisten a paper towel and place it over the clay then cover it with a plastic bag. Once you are done sculpting you need to let the clay dry out slowly or it will crack which can sometimes add a neat effect.

Step #1 Getting an Idea

The first step before you can create anything is to have a clear idea of what you want to make before you do it. Some little things may be changed during the sculpting process but the overall idea usually stays the same. For my demonstration in this blog i will be creating a mask using everyday materials and things that can be found at a hardware store.I will first sculpt it in clay then casting it in a strong, durable resin and fiberglass. My mask will resemble the mask of a character (Phillip Clyde) on the popular video game Army of Two. Because it is my mask and therefore my creation i will be deviating from the original design somewhat in order to make it more of my own, not just some copy. This is important because everyone is different with different opinions and ideas. Without this artistic expression we would be very bored in life, at least in my opinion.